Major Shift in China’s Cosmetic Ingredient Landscape
In a landmark move to foster innovation, China’s National Medical Products Administration (NMPA) published new regulations on June 26, 2026, effective July 15, 2026 . The revised rules, comprising the Cosmetic New Ingredients Registration and Filing Management Provisions and the General Technical Rules for Registration and Filing Data of Cosmetic New Ingredients, fundamentally restructure the compliance framework for cosmetic raw materials .
The headline change? A dramatic reduction in the scope of ingredients deemed “higher risk,” slashing the list from 10 to just 5 categories .
From 10 to 5: The New High-Risk Definition
Under the previous 2021 regulations, 10功效 types were classified as “higher risk”: preservatives, sunscreens, colorants, hair dyes, skin-whitening, anti-hair loss, anti-acne, anti-wrinkle (excluding physical), anti-dandruff, and deodorant . The 2026 reform realigns this list with the Cosmetic Supervision and Administration Regulation, retaining only the following 5 categories under strict registration management :
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Preservatives
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Sunscreens (UV filters)
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Colorants
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Hair Dyes
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Skin-Whitening / Freckle-Removing Agents
This is a strategic “reasonable relaxation” that acknowledges the lower inherent risk of other functional ingredients, according to NMPA evaluations .
Unlocking Innovation: What This Means for Anti-Acne, Anti-Dandruff, and More
The most impactful change for many developers is that anti-hair loss, anti-acne, anti-wrinkle, anti-dandruff, and deodorant ingredients are no longer treated as high-risk. Their registration and filing requirements are now significantly simplified . Key simplification details include:
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Simplified Dossiers: Mandatory submission of functional evidence, detailed test method validation, and accelerated/long-term stability study reports are no longer required for these categories. Instead, companies must retain these documents for inspection .
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Reduced Testing: Ingredient developers no longer face blanket demands for reproductive/developmental toxicity, chronic toxicity/carcinogenicity, and long-term human trials for these lower-risk items .
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Cost & Time Savings: Industry estimates suggest these reforms can slash R&D costs by over 50% for ingredients like anti-acne actives and potentially shorten development timelines by up to half (e.g., saving 1-2 years on certain studies) .
Smarter Data Use and Global Alignment
The new rules also modernize the safety evaluation process, reducing redundant work and aligning with global standards:
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Reuse Existing Data: The regulations explicitly allow the use of existing data, including internationally recognized test methods (not just those in China’s technical specification), provided the methods are scientifically sound . Information from safe use or consumption histories can also be leveraged .
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Full Acceptance of Animal Alternative Methods: A major barrier for international trade has been removed. The new rules fully accept alternative test methods recognized by international authoritative bodies, even if not yet included in China’s Technical Specification for Cosmetic Safety. This facilitates both foreign ingredients entering China and Chinese ingredients expanding globally .
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Streamlined Administration: The reform separates administrative rules from technical details, allowing technical guidelines to update faster. It also simplifies procedures for changing local responsible entities, solving a longstanding industry bottleneck .
The Impact: A Faster, More Innovative Industry
This regulatory update reflects China’s commitment to becoming a global hub for cosmetic innovation . By reducing the testing and documentation burden for a wide range of sought-after functional ingredients, the NMPA is enabling faster market entry for new products in categories like acne treatment, scalp care, and anti-aging.
How to Leverage These Changes for Your Brand
These regulatory changes open new doors for companies looking to innovate in the Chinese market or leverage Chinese raw materials globally. To successfully navigate this evolving landscape and bring new, compliant, and effective products to market, partnering with experienced suppliers and manufacturers is key.
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